Breaking Bread

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The inspiration was a full circle trip, trying to make brioche.  Huh?? you say…

Well lets take the main ingredients and go find them on a field trip.

Flour – K2 Milling, Beeton Ontario.  Where we source some of our specialty milled grains at Cluny Boulangerie.

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Eggs – Eisses Farm Fresh Eggs.20150825-IMG_4664-Edit

Milk / Butter – Miller’s Dairy, Creemore, Ontario (unfortunately they don’t manufacture butter comercially)

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The New Farm – Nothing remotely to do with the whole brioche idea but it’s close by and AMAZING organic produce so why not…20150825-R0040142

Chef JLo’s awesome idea was to mix all the ingredients we gathered together and leave in a bowl on top of the rental cars engine block.  Should be ready by the time we get home…..

I called executive decision not to move forward with this one……..

This is the trip thanks to Google Maps.  No thanks to Siri who was clearly sick of listening to Howard Stern and lead us to a different flipping town.The Distillery District, Toronto, ON to The Distillery District, Toronto, ON - Google Maps (dragged)

Going to leave the field trip report to Cynthia Latella from Pure Spirits, thanks for a great write up Cindy!

We arrived at the Distillery just as the sun was coming up, grabbed coffees and we were on our way. A few hours and a nap later we pull up to
farm #1: Miller’s dairy. We are greeted by clusters of adorable kittens and John Miller. He tells us a bit about his life and families history. He explains that jersey cows are smaller and yield less milk but their milk has a higher percentage of protein and fat and therefore tastes better. 20150825-DSCF4946

As he is giving us a tour of the equipment used to seperate fat from skim, pasteurize and bottle the milk, I look up at the pipes and there isn’t a single crumb of dust. Anywhere. It is clear this man cares about what he is doing. Out to the barn we go! I can smell the cows and the little kid in me is getting excited. Mr. Miller goes on to explain how they use well water to cool the milk down before its refrigerated so they use less electricity. Very efficient.  On to the cows! Not yet, first we see where they get milked. Their activity levels are also monitored to see which ones are in heat. And now out to the cows! Rows of extremely calm cows just hanging out feeding, licking our hands leaning their huge heads on us. They really are pretty animals. Okay now back to the car.

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After a bit of a detour, no thanks to Siri, we pull up to
stop#2: the New Farm, a small family farm run by Brent Preston and his wife Gillian Flies.20150825-R0040150

We missed the tour so Brent gives us the abridged tour. He starts by showing us his mustatd greens which he keeps under a tarp because of a type of beetle that likes to eat them. Then he explained that the have a system of fertilizing the soil that doesnt involve manure or pesticides.  They plant a summer assortment of plants catered to give the soil back the nutrients it needs. Then they plants a winter mix that contains rye and other grains to deter weeds the following season. Very ineresting stuff. Gill, his wife, joined us in the vegetable garden where Brent was plucking fresh beets from the soil for us to taste. Chef jv pulled out his pocket knife and shaved off bits for everyone.20150825-R0040152 Possibly the sweetest beets I’ve ever tasted. Gill said it took them ten years to get the soil to what it is now. I guess patience and hard work is the motto here. They spoke about how they did not want to expand yet because it might compromise the quality of their produce. And how they would rather have their hands in the soil than on a keyboard. we ate our lunch on their porch where they brought out some baby salad greens that were picked that day and possibly the best cucumber i have ever tasted. We packed our full bellies back into the car and were on our way again.20150825-R0040157

Another nap later we arrive at stop#3 the egg farm. This could not be more different than the first two stops. Huge aluminum sided barn, no windows, no people completely surrounded by tall corn fields. It was actually a bit eerie. The feeding system was completely automated as well. This was a stricly profit operation. No labour costs, just timers and chickens. After being slighty creeped out by the silent egg farm, we hopped back into the car.

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Stop #4 K2Milling. Before we even walk in this place looks interesting.  Pieces of old barn wood leaning everywhere, large parts of mill equipment on the driveway,  and an old red porsche carrera right out front.  20150825-DSCF4976Inside, a random collection of old mill cogs, antique fans and an assortment of jars with grains decorate what i think is the storefront. In the next room a man is making custom furniture out of old barn wood. Mark Hayhoe tells about how he is changing the way people think about flour and milling. While they do lots of wheat, corn and oats, they also do really weird stuff like blueberry flour, tobacco flour (aka smoke-stick) ed. and chardonnay grape flour. While we were there he had cranberries that had been pressed for juice, then their pulp was dried and he was milling it up. Such a bright red color and super tart tasting, I can’t wait to use it. He took us out to the mill and explained that between milling different product they clean the mill. The biproduct of cleaning the mill goes to local farmers for their feed. In fact, a local pig farmer came by while Mark was talking to us to collect the corn they had cleaned out that morning.
We also learned that way back when The Distillery was still in the distilling buisness, they used to purchase they grain from his grandfather.20150825-DSCF4992-Edit-Edit-2

Our long day had come to an end, I really enjoyed the whole comunnity feeling, you scratch my back I’ll scratch yours. And the bottom line was always quality not quantity. These people work really hard but they’re doing something they love and believe in.

And so after meeting some really great people, and being overstimulated with new ideas it was back to the big city for us.

Cynthia Latella – Senior Line Cook @ Pure Spirits Oyster House

please click on a picture to open the gallery

Year of the RAM and a cold cold, -30ºc trip to Stratford, ON.

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The DRC culinary team set out on another fantastic culinary trip, this time to the birthplace of Justin Bieber.  Much to the disappointment of our minivans full of cooks, there was no sign of aforementioned #bieber anywhere, nor was there a sign.  No shrines, no monument, no banners, no fanfare – just a frigid frozen landscape of Ontario farmland.  The beauty, for sake of redneck hooligan teenagers riding skidoo’s down the sidewalk, was quaint and old world.  A beautiful little town..

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So year of the ram, what’s this got to do with the price of fish?  Nothing.  It does however relate to our monthly skills competition called “The Greatest Dish” or the GDC.  Now this year, we have decided to relate our GDC comp. to our field trip, tying the two together.  So this month we tied together the culmination of the Chinese New Year, year of the ram – and thought it a great idea to go to a lamb farm in Ontario, buy the lamb for the competition and bring it home to The Distillery.

We would then hold a butchery demo, break the lamb down to cuts and then raffle them off in a draw for the GDC competitors.  The cuts of lamb were put in a hat (not literally – that’s gross) and pulled out by the cooks.  They would then have that cut of lamb to cook for their competition.

Back into the minivans and we were off to Koskamp Family Farms to walk their facility and meet their wonderful Water Buffalo and Holstein cattle.  This little family run dairy farm specialize in water buffalo milk, something only very few farms in North America produce.

Their Water Buffalo milk is processed into Buffalo Mozzarella by Quality Cheese in Vaughan and is used on our menus here in The Distillery.  Fantastic “farm to table” moment for our cooks.
The Koskamp philosophy is simple, “We take good care of our Water Buffalo; they will take good care of us.  We provide fresh air, clean water, nutritious feed and a clean dry place to rest”

Hungry cooks – we set off to Monforte Dairy Cafe in the centre of town for some local grub.  Charcuterie boards, grilled cheese sandwiches and coffee and we were ready to roll on to the next farm.  Oh – and a surprise visit from the one and only Jose Matamoros!  He skipped class at Stratford Culinary School to come and say g’day.  Hope you didn’t get in trouble mate…

Erbcroft Farm
This little farm was literally a family business employing one farm hand to look over their sheep, ducks, pigs and dogs all under the one roof.  It was touching to see the small scale of this operation and how they are carving out a living, off the land.  Honest hard work and a love for his herd, a genuine old soul.
Here was  where we purchased our lamb for the competition and butchery demo.

Enough from me….  Here are some thoughts from our DRC cooks that came along.

“Last Thursday we went on another awesome DRC field trip.  First, we went to a cattle farm which predominantly had Holstein and Water Buffalo.  We were able to see up close both animals and learned about the milking and breeding cycles of both type of cattle.  I found this very interesting as it provides insight to the living conditions of cattle, how they eat, and how they are treated.  As a cook, it really helps us see how our product goes from farm to kitchen”
 – Steve Hoang
Apprentice Chef, Pure Spirits Oyster House & Grill

“The most interesting thing I learned on the field trip was how farmers in Canada have to manage and care for their stock during the severe winter temperatures here.  Most aspects of farming life are quite familiar to me as i grew up on a farm.  -20ºC and below temperatures are not.  Housing all of your livestock indoors for half of the year, using heat lamps to keep the young warm, and the limited feed options available are not familiar aspects.
The technology used on the water buffalo farm was quite interesting as well.  Pedometers used to count the animals steps each day, which can then be associated to events such as breeding, and then linked to the animals milk production was something I had not seen before”
 –  Travis Cropley
Chef de Cuisine, Cluny Bistro & Boulangerie

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“This week I got the privilege of visiting Koskamp Family water buffalo farm in Stratford.  It was an amazing experience, it brought a whole new meaning to the saying, “From Farm To Table”.  This trip opened my eyes on how hard our local farmers work to provide us with great quality meat, day in day out.  No matter the weather, it could be -30 to +30 degrees outside, they still put there all in to raising a great product.  Throughout the trip it was super cold, all i was thinking about was keeping my feet warm.  But once you see the proud look on all the farmers faces, being out there with them in the cold was all worth it.  It’s clear they love what they do.  It’s refreshing to know that there are still farmers that are raising animals the old fashion way.  They welcome us with open arms, and eagerly answered all our questions.  I had a great time. 🙂 ”
 – 
Teneisha Anderson-Stewart
Grill Cook, El Catrin Destileria

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“Hello Chef Miles, I’m emailing you to thank you for allowing us to participate in the enlightening field trip to the farms last Thursday.  It was a humbling experience to be reminded of the hard work and care that is put into our food before it has even been cooked.  Also, after shaking the farmer’s hand who raised our competition lamb with love, I feel it is only right when cooking that i do justice to the protein i have at hand.  The passion that i have for food and cooking burns a little brighter with me from going on a trip like this.
So thank you on behalf of all DRC cooks and myself for allowing things like this to happen.  It not only teaches us about the story behind our food, but strengthens the bond between the DRC family.”
 Michael Stafford
  Garde Manger, Cluny Bistro & Boulangerie

“We started the day at Tenderbuff farms where they specialized in buffalo milk.  They have also fallen into selling buffalo meat.  Their first buffalo was from the US and since then they’ve been importing semen from Italy to help improve the herd to produce better quality milk, with a greater yield.
Water Buffalo are really smart.  They form ‘friendships’ with other Buffalo.  They can recognize and react to familiar people and are very curious.  As we walked through, they were jumping and clamouring over each other to get a look.  When they are young they have their horns frozen then cut off to avoid issues later in life among other buffalo.
Milk from buffalo differs in a few ways from cow’s milk.  They make a lot less milk than typcial Holsteins make but it contains a much higher milk fat percentage.  Water buffalo have a longer gestation and extra chromosomes.  The meat is a good alternative to beef due to it being a leaner animal and has a cleaner taste with low fat and cholesterol.
Next we went to Erbcroft farm to see and learn about sheep and lamb.  I noticed right away how many different types of sheep there were.  I could pick out different colours, head shapes and wool types.  Another thing I noticed was how attached to the farmer they all seemed.  Sheep get their tails removed for sanitation and to prevent other animals from biting at them.  When butchered at 6-8 months, the meat is know as spring lamb.  If butchered between 8-12 months it is referred to as lamb, 12 to 24 months 
hogget, and after that, mutton.
Once again, this display of “from farm to table” was enjoyable, and educational.”

 – Bryan Lang
   Garde Manger, Pure Spirits Oyster House & Grill

Butchery Demo

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Back home and on to phase 2.  Butchery.  Sous Chef jLo from Cluny Bistro and Chef de Partie Jeff Glowacki from Pure Spirits led the butchery demo in the Pure Spirits Prep Kitchen.
Check out the video!

Greatest Dish Comp
Competition day !
Some fantastic entries from our DRC cooks, pictures are below.  The winner though,
Aviv Moshe, Cluny Bistro – for his “Moroccan Lamb Roll”

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Honourable mention to,
Jeff Glowacki, Pure Spirits – for his “Chicken Fried Lamb & Braised Lamb collar”
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And here are the all the other GDC entries!  Fantastic work guys.

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Stay tuned for next months Field Trip and GDC.  Should be a blast.
We are visiting the Redpath Sugar Museum, Cheese Boutique for a Q&A on maple syrup and cheese pairings, and then on to a Maple Syrup Farm in Halton, ON.  See you then!

   – Chef.

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